Light-Duty Cleat Hangers are normally attached to the wall with the screws and plastic anchors supplied. This fastening method creates a solid, stable support for the frame. You can substitute different fastener hardware if you prefer.
The 6" cleats have two prepunched slotted screw holes, four inches on center. Only very minimal leveling adjustments are possible after installation so it is imperative to mount cleats as level as possible the first time.
If you are using a Light-Duty Cleat Hanger on a narrow wood frame with a long horizontal span, make certain that the frame is sufficiently braced internally so that the frame's top rail will remain rigid under load. The cleat is 1 1/8 inches wide so the wood frame must be at least that width to accomodate the cleat.
We have a number of customers who have used Light-Duty Cleats to hang something with a backing material that is either too thin or too soft to accept screw fasteners. In these cases usually either a silicone-based liquid adhesive or a good quality double-sided foam-backed tape has been used to attach the cleat instead of screws. In these situations be aware that the adhesive you use must adhere equally well to the aluminum cleat and whatever backing material you are dealing with and create a permanent bond on both surfaces.
Any reasonably handy person will have no trouble hanging pictures with Frame-Lock Hangers. The first picture you tackle may take a little time, but once the installation sequence is understood, hanging speed will increase.
A basic instruction sheet is included with each shipment of Frame-Lock Hangers. Or, if you prefer, refer to our complete step-by-step Frame-Lock Hanger installation instructions below.
Don't be intimidated by the number of steps outlined in the Frame-Lock Hanger instructions. The installation process is much more straightforward and intuitive than it might appear from the written description.
- Place the frame
face-down on a soft surface.
- Place one of the
(6"/12"/18") aluminum brackets horizontally on the back
side of the frame's top rail, with the screw holes at the
top and the offset end of the bracket facing down and
away from the frame. Center the bracket left-to-right on
the frame and slightly down from the top edge. Make
sure the bracket is level on the frame. Mark the
positions of the bracket screw holes and attach the
bracket to the frame using the 1/2" screws provided.
Screw holes in the frame should be pre-drilled to avoid
splitting the wood.
- For Frames
Using the 6" or 12" Bracket: Attach the slotted
mounting plate horizontally at the center of the bottom
rail, slightly up from the bottom edge, using the 1/2"
screws provided. Screw holes in the frame should be
pre-drilled to avoid splitting the wood. Measure from the
outside edge of the frame's bottom rail to the center
(top to bottom) of the slot in the mounting plate. Write
down this measurement.
- For Frames
Using the 18" Bracket: Attach the two slotted
mounting plates horizontally, 3" in from each side of the
frame's bottom rail, slightly up from the bottom edge,
using the 1/2" screws provided. Screw holes in the frame
should be pre-drilled to avoid splitting the wood.
Measure from the outside edge of the frame's bottom rail
to the center (top to bottom) of the slot in the mounting
plates. Write down this measurement.
- Mark the
position on the wall where you want the center of the top
of the frame to be. Use a pencil or small piece of tape
- Hold the second
(6"/12"/18") aluminum bracket horizontally against the
wall with the screw holes at the the bottom and the
offset end of the bracket facing up and away from the
wall. Center the bracket side-to-side on the mark you
made in Step 5, with the top edge of the bracket level
and approximately 3/4" below the mark (precise
measurement, if required, will depend on location of
frame bracket on the frame).
- Punch or mark
the position of the hole at the right hand end of the
bracket on the wall.
- Drill a 3/16"
dia. hole in the wall at this mark. (A 3/16" dia. hole is
usually sufficient for drywall--if the plastic anchor
starts to deform when hammering it in during Step 5,
re-drill the hole using a 1/4" drill bit). If a wall stud
is hit, use the screw without the anchor or move the
- Gently hammer
one of the white plastic anchors provided into the hole
in the wall until it is just flush with the wall surface.
Attach the bracket to the wall using one of the 1" screws
provided. Do not tighten this screw down completely
- Carefully level
the bracket on the wall using the screw already installed
as a pivot point. An inexpensive lightweight "torpedo"
level is good for this. Take care to position the wall
bracket as level as possible.
- Mark for and
install a white plastic anchor and screw in a second hole
at the left hand end of the bracket. Depending on the
length of the bracket and configuration of the screw
holes, be sure at least one in the two screws is in a
slotted bracket hole. Tighten down both screws completely
but do not over-tighten--they should be snug, but too
much force can deform the plastic anchors.
- When the bracket
is screwed to the wall at both ends, hang the frame by
holding it flush against the wall and slowly sliding it
down until the two brackets engage.
- Check the frame
for level. If not quite level, small adjustments can be
made by removing the frame from the wall, loosening the
bracket screw in the slotted bracket hole slightly,
shifting the bracket up or down as needed, retightening
the screw and replacing the frame on the
- If you are using
a 12" or 18" bracket, remove the frame from the wall,
pencil-mark the position of the bracket on the wall at
the bottom edge as a reference, then install the
remaining white plastic anchor(s) and screw(s) and
replace the frame on the wall.
- With the frame
hung on the wall, lightly pencil-mark the position of the
frame's outside edge on the wall at the center
(left-to-right) of where the mounting plate is located on
the bottom rail of the frame.
- Remove the frame
from the wall.
- Transfer the
measurement taken at Step 3 or 4 to the wall, making a
second pencil mark up from the one made in Step 15. Erase
the bottom mark.
- Drill a 5/16"
dia. hole at the pencil mark made in Step 17 and gently
hammer the blue T-Head plastic anchor provided into the
drilled hole until it is just flush with the wall
- Thread the
T-Head screw provided into the plastic anchor until about
3/8" extends out from the wall surface. Start the T-Head
screw first by hand and complete using a Security
Align the head to a final horizontal
- Again hang the
frame on the wall. The T-Head screw just installed should
fall inside the slot of the mounting plate on the back of
the bottom rail.
- From the right
hand side, slide the Security Wrench up underneath the
bottom edge of the frame and, without lifting the frame
away from the wall, engage and rotate the T-Head screw
clockwise one-quarter turn to a vertical position. The
frame is now locked to the wall.